When winter rolls around, it may seem tempting to retreat indoors until the warm weather returns. Yet doing so would mean missing the opportunity to experience one of the greatest pleasures Japan has to offer – thawing the winter from your bones with a steaming hot onsen!
Nagasaki Prefecture is an ideal place to do so, as the properties of the water from the hot springs vary across the prefecture, meaning that each town offers a completely different bathing experience.
To help you choose the perfect onsen town to visit, we've put together a guide to the prefecture's greatest bathing spots. We've also included just some of the great activities you can do, and cafes and sightseeing spots you can visit before or after your trip to the onsen. Soon, you won't be wondering which onsen you should visit, you'll be wondering which onsen you should visit first!
Unzen is famous for its jigoku, or "hells", pools from which milky clouds of hot steam issue, which you can explore from raised wooden walkways. Walking through the steam is undeniably beautiful, however, its relentlessness and power is also a little humbling.
The hells also live up to their name - in the early 17th century Japanese feudal lord Matsukura Shigemasa is said to have tortured Christians in these boiling hot pools of water.
In keeping with Nagasaki's international past, Unzen was the first onsen resort targeted at foreign guests, and was visited by American authors Hellen Keller and Pearl Buck. Today, it is one of Japan's most famous resorts and is still foreigner-friendly, boasting many hotels in both Japanese and Western style, plus many great public baths.
Make Unzen specialty
"yusenpei" 湯せんぺい
You may be familiar with "senbei", sweet or savoury rice crackers that are widely available across Japan. However, Unzen has their own unique take on this popular snack – their "yusenpei", which are made with water from the local hot springs. Toutomiya 遠江屋, located near Unzen's main souvenir shops, is the only place that handmakes yusenpei, and is kind enough to offer visitors the opportunity to do so too!
Pour a generous scoop of the batter, made of eggs, flour, sugar and (of course) spring water, into the heavy hot press, squeeze it closed, and wait while the heat forces some of the batter to surge over the side. This cooks instantly into a messy border, giving the handmade yusenpei their own special touch! Then, place the closed press over the heater to cook for a short time, before opening the press and carefully peeling off the hot, fully formed yusenpei.
You won't be able to resist eating the hot ones instantly, but luckily the shop has premade yusenpei for sale in various different flavours and styles. Give them to a lucky friend, or eat them all yourself! Friendly and enthusiastic English speaking staff are on hand to help you make, or buy, this delicious local treat.
Give your feet a treat
In February, if you feel cold as you explore the town, you can enjoy a special steam "kotatsu" in the heart of the Unzen hells, and heat yourself back up!
A kotatsu is a table with a heated underside – the heat is trapped by a thick surrounded blanket under which you can warm your legs. In Japanese homes, where central heating is rare, they're a great way to keep warm in the winter.
The Unzen kotatsu looks similar, but the heat is naturally provided by steam rising from below the wooden deck. This is not only another great example of how Unzen town utilises its natural resources, but also will provide you with an unusual story to tell your friends!
A newly built area of the hells allows you to warm your bare feet on naturally hot stones, whilst also being warmed by the steam. Best enjoyed before a delicious onsen egg (an egg boiled in the hot onsen water) purchased from the nearby stand!
Fukudaya Hotel
This luxurious hotel is the largest in Unzen. As well as offering a wide selection of bathing options, the Fukudaya also offers the opportunity to relax in style around a cosy fire (with marshmallow toasting at selected times of the day) or in a cool bar stocked with a great selection of vinyl records.
The four public baths are, as is usual, gender segregated . There are two inside baths named for their stylish aesthetics – one is around the theme of "hinoki" (Japanese cypress), and the other decorated in cool "mekageishi" (granite). The "seseragi" (flowing water) and "sasezuri" (bird song) outdoor baths take advantage of their beautiful natural setting.
If you would like to enjoy a soak in the hot water alone, or in a small group (a couple, or a family, for example) there are four private baths that can be rented for 50 minutes. The private marutanbo bath is particularly beautiful, with fresh spring water flowing in from a wooden pipe.
The Nagazasshi is Nagasaki's No. 1 English language magazine. You can read it online at www.nagazasshi.com
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Collaboration Pages: January-February 2016 issue
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